Contigo Peru!

As we left Cusco, the Russia World Cup and football fever had sparked into action. Everywhere in Peru we saw giant billboards with ‘Contigo Peru!’ written across them (meaning ‘with you Peru’). This was the first time since Spain 1982 that Peru had qualified for a World Cup and everyone was hooked, dreaming of football glory. Swept up in all of it, we were more than happy to get onboard with the football hysteria. From Cusco til leaving Peru conversation centred on football and fixtures became ingrained into our plans, even planning our activities around the games!

In honour of our World Cup obsession and given how integral it was during our weeks in Peru – we decided to mix things up with the latest post.

Arequipa

Best for delicious food and incredible views!

World Cup contender: Brazil

This city was quietly duped as a favourite, full of flavoursome restaurants and attractive colonial buildings. So not too dissimilar to La Seleción – lots of flash, creativity and pretty on the eyes. While we were there, we gorged on ceviche, local delicacies and even managed to find some home comforts. The highlight for us in Arequipa was indulging in the best Indian curry we had eaten in South America. We spent two evenings there, savouring every spice, packed with a punch, like a Coutinho screamer!

The main square in Arequipa was pretty as they come, surrounded by snow-capped mountains and volcanoes. We learnt human sacrifice was rife in this region during Inca rule, and children were often taken to the top of these sacred mountains and offered to higher powers. The most famous of these, Juanita, was found preserved in the mountains in 1995 (500 years after her death!) and the body now sits in a museum in Arequipa.

As the Peruvian food scene continues to grow outside the country, within the borders they keep experimenting with local produce. We ended up in a local picantería, known for offering lunchtime delights to locals. We filled our boots with their most popular fare and before we knew it we had ordered enough food for the whole Brazil squad. What we learnt during this culinary experience was just how diverse corn really is – it shocks us every time we try something new featuring the humble little guys

While in Arequipa, we also ventured to Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world. We had planned to hike for a couple of days but once we arrived, we found ourselves wandering 15 minutes to the edge, admiring from a distance and then returning to watch Peru’s first game of the competition.

Famous for spotting the Andean condor, our little jaunt to the edge was just enough time to see some of these majestic birds swoop around the canyon. With a wingspan of up to 10 feet, they’re not easy to miss.

In other words, we reached the quarter finals. We came far enough to sample the views, but didn’t go all the way. On a side note, our budget’s were secretly relieved for a non-Brazilian final, having said to ourselves we would fly to Rio if Brazil got to the final!

Huachachina

Best for sandboarding adventures and sunsets

World Cup contender: Mexico

The tiny town of Huachachina is an oasis surrounded by giant sand dunes, a minnow amongst giants, a relatively small football nation against the reigning world champions. We were only there for one night, spending the day sledging down the dunes and taking in a fantastic sunset. It was a short but sweet visit and if you had to compare it to one equally sweet moment, it has to be the Mexico victory over the seemingly unflappable Germans.

Of course, like our visit to the sand dunes, Mexico’s World Cup was brief but who cares. Their World Cup and our time in Huachachina will always be remembered for a short but brilliant moment.

Lima

Best for a bit of normality

World Cup contender: Spain

Will anyone remember what happened to Spain in the World Cup? Somehow we doubt it. Spain lost their manager a day before their opening game, leaving a hanging cloud of perpetual grey above them for their time in Russia. This probably sums up our time in Lima – uninspiring, very easy to forget and in a constant state grey ‘dreich’.

The closest Peru came to the trophy

There were a few little things that we enjoyed in Lima, watching Peru’s second and sadly destiny defining game against eventual winners France in the main square with Jana and Cyril. We also spent our last day in Barranco wandering through bizarre and wonderful streets while popping into the odd craft market or two. So there were occasional glimmers of hope for Lima and Spain alike, but as with their World Cup journey, we didn’t hang around for too long.

Huaraz

Best for nature, nature, nature!

World Cup contender: France

This was not meant to be a winner. Huaraz was quietly pinned on our Peru places to see, but not much thought had been given to it. Just like our French comparison, the early stages of the Llaca Valley day hike (our first trek in Huaraz) did not go too smoothly, it was tough and at times we felt lost, pained and tempted to return home. Veering ‘slightly’ off the recommended path, we found ourselves in thick jungle, battling trees, streams and had to deal with a nasty bout of altitude sickness.

As the morning sun crept over the mountains and started the melt the frost that had settled on the ground, we were hopeful for a simple stroll through the valley..

After 4 hours of being attacked by branches, we found the path (reaching a point that should have taken us 1 hour). The views that we eventually came across were beautiful – it was just a shame it had nearly broken us getting there.

From burrowing through dark valleys to blissful waterfalls

However, our group stage battles had not defeated us and we were determined to go on and see more of the Cordelia Blanca mountain range. Two days later, we were at our finale, Laguna Parón.

This was Rosh’s first successful scrambling experience since she detestably declined her first chance in the highlands of Scotland. She’d sure come a long way, just like France rising like a Phoenix from the ashes of a Zidane headbut

Stunning mountains and the bluest blue, our Peru winner!

This was the most beautiful lake either of us had ever seen, perhaps even the best view we had ever seen! In awe from above the lake, football was in the hands of the French and everywhere you looked, Russia or Peru, everything was blue.

The wildflower World Cup trophy of Huaraz.

Huanchaco

Best for having nothing to do but watch the quarter finals!

World Cup contender: Argentina

Sometimes you have the perfect ending, a fairytale curtain drawing on a magnificent journey – other times, you leave the stage with a whimper of applause and a grey cloud hanging. Our Peruvian finale was the grey, lacklustre Huanchaco. A small beachside town with not much going, and indeed nothing going on when the sun fails to break the cloud cover. Much like the adorned Leo Messi, his World Cup journey has, perhaps, come to an end in a similar fashion – not much to celebrate, unable to break the deadlock on many occasions and ultimately bows out with grey clouds hanging over him.

Not the sun baked ending to Peru we had hoped for…although the 2,500 year old reed boats were something to look at. These temporary boats only last until the reeds get waterlogged and are then taken apart. We started with the fresh reeds of Puno, and end here with the waterlogged reeds of Huanchaco

We had not done much in Huanchaco, we watched the football and planned our onward adventures. Like Argentina, we look forward to a new dawn, into the unknown and hoping to leave grey clouds behind us.

“See you later Peru, now show me the Galápagos!”

Love & hugs,

Cal & Rosh xxx