“Bienviendos Buenos Aires”, the pilot announced. We’d made it. Argentina, South America and the first destination of our Latin American adventure. This is the home of tango, colourful neighbourhoods, and fanatical football zealots. Off we went. Vamos!!
However, our initial attempts of ‘Vamos’ were somewhat thwarted. The plan was simple enough, exit airport, buy bus ticket, find bus, get bus to the centre of Buenos. Easy enough – but with both ticket machines out of order (the only two in the airport) and, following an exchange with the entire population of the bus once we found it (not too sure on the content of said exchange but it was mostly gestures), we learned we couldn’t get the bus. Getting to Buenos would have to be achieved by taking a more expensive shuttle. Taking the positives – we made it to Buenos Aires.
Wandering around Buenos Aires, it was easy to forget we were in another continent, another hemisphere even. The buildings, the food, and the people – everything felt, and indeed it is, very European. Spanish sounds, Italian flavours, French architecture and two marvelled Brits. Having originally planned two nights, we were tempted into a few more and then eagerly planned our return to catch a football game (we just missed one) and to soak up some more Buenos vibes.
Buenos in bloom – the Jacaranda trees lined all the main roads
Hostels are our staple choice of accommodation, and our first was Millhouse hostel set in the heart of the old town. It was the biggest hostel either of us have been in and stepping back into ‘traveller mode’ took a day or so. However it all became very familiar listening to our first room mate, Brian, a New York native and our self proclaimed ‘friendly transition between NYC and BA.’ Stories of wine and laid back atmosphere of Buenos Aires set our appetites alight.
I’m sure there are more districts of Buenos Aires but we spent all of our time in four different areas of the city: San Telmo (cultural, architectural, political area), Palermo (craft beer bars, cobbled streets, gentrified hub), La Boca (edgier, colourful and home to Boca Juniors) and Recoleta (upmarket, home to an extravagant graveyard).
San Telmo was close to the hostel and so we wandered the streets, lined with blossoming, purple, Jacaranda trees. We tucked into our first South American breakfast, coffee and croissants – nothing beats a meal deal! We took a walking tour around the area, getting our history lessons of the city and some reminders of everyone’s favourite colonial tyrant (yes the Brits stuck their noses and guns into South America too). We wandered past peculiar statues of cartoons and some fantastic street art. Cal was also introduced to Dulce de Leche, a super sweet caramel that Argentinians literally spread all over toast. I’m sure it won’t be the last we hear about it. Notions of ‘I could live here’ started to come to the fore.
The main square in Buenos Aires, a hotbed of political statements
You can only soak up so much culture before needing to soak up something else. Preferably red, cheap and a bottle of it. We headed to Palermo, having mastered the public ‘SUBE’ bus system (small but significant victory), to hang out in the trendy part of town. We wandered in the botanical gardens, testing the Spanish knowledge and further divulging the idea of living in Buenos Aires. Of course, testing out our beliefs of how good a city it would be to live in requires a taster session. So we headed to Guatemala street (all the streets are named after countries) opted for cerveza over vino tinto, perched ourselves on a bar stool by a low-lit cobbled crossroad and watched people spilling out from bars on each corner. It was European vibes on a warm South American evening. Something to get used to? Perhaps
Lifting pints, not weights – our first drink on the road
La Boca was a different pace completely. We meandered past Boca Juniors stadium and through streets surrounded by yellow, red and green houses – stopping for pictures, some featuring Maradona murals. Our lunch spot became a scene of tango – enjoyed with our much desired bottle of red. In hindsight the vino tinto may have influenced the next purchase, a miniature Diego Maradona bought in market to serve as mascot for the trip ahead. Inspired, spurred on and maybe slightly still feeling the effects of wine, Cal took to the dance floor that evening for tango lessons. Desperately trying to find fluidity, rhythm and grace, although probably less Andrea Pirlo more a clumsy Sunday League Centre Back.
The closest Cal will get to reliving this moment
Our final day was spent exploring Recoleta. Full of confidence and easing into life as a local, we got the bus (we were masters in 4 days, gesticulation was getting us far) to a small park with a large flower sculpture. More croissants consumed and more appreciation of the city. After spotting a few famous souls and sharing ghost stories while wandering through a extravagant graveyard, we ate lunch in a converted theatre – now a book store come cafe. This was necessary fuel for our mammoth bus journey south, into the lands of Patagonia.
Picnic in the park (no, those are not matching sunglasses)
Having spent a week in 2 incredible cities, we were ready to head a bit further south in search of some clearer air. So far it’s been an incredible kick off to the trip and I’m sure we’ll appreciate the bright lights of BA when we make our way back in a couple of months.
Lettuce celebrate – One week into the trip and we are beginning to realise how expensive Argentina is, but also how we may not be getting the best balance, food-wise. So a star was born. Introducing the staple that we think will see us through a lot of the trip – the humble rice portion, attractively topped with the ‘lean’ lentil, the ‘goes with everything’ chopped tomato and of course, the seasonal vegetable of choice. We started with the aubergine, but who knows where we’ll end up. Rock and roll.
What we’re listening to – Hitting the cliche and saying the sound of Tango definitely filled our time in Buenos. There was also a banging Spanish tune our roommates had on repeat, but that was before the download of Shazam. We’ll be better from here on out, we promise.
Adios Buenos, we’ll see you soon
Cal & Rosh xxx
The Los Vagans 